Why people make their own, and the caveats
Making skincare at home appeals for a few reasons: fewer ingredients, less packaging and sometimes a lower cost. It can also be a way to avoid ingredients that have caused you problems before. Those are fair reasons. It is worth being realistic about the downsides, though.
- Natural does not mean harmless. Plant oils, honey, citrus, nuts and essential oils can all cause reactions in some people, and some are known allergens.
- Homemade products are not tested or preserved like commercial ones. Commercial makers test stability and contamination and use preservatives where needed. A kitchen version has none of that.
- Savings are not guaranteed. Good-quality ingredients can cost as much as an ordinary product, and a recipe that goes off before you use it is wasteful. Where cost matters, budget sustainability is usually better served by using less and finishing what you buy.
If you have eczema, dermatitis, psoriasis, very sensitive skin or an allergy history, talk to a doctor or pharmacist before trying new ingredients.
The most important rule: avoid water
Any recipe that contains water, such as aloe gel, hydrosols, tea, milk or fresh fruit, can grow bacteria, yeast and mould within days. Without a properly formulated preservative system, which is difficult to get right at home, that is a real risk, especially for products used near eyes, on broken skin or on the face. For that reason, the recipes below are water-free (anhydrous). Water-free does not mean risk-free, because contamination can still happen from wet fingers, but the risk is lower.
Basic hygiene helps whatever you make:
- Wash your hands, and clean and dry all equipment and containers (sterilising jars with boiling water and letting them dry fully is a common approach).
- Use a clean, dry spoon or spatula instead of dipping in fingers.
- Keep products out of the bathroom steam where you can, and out of direct sun.
- Label with the date made, and throw out anything that changes smell, colour or texture, or shows mould.
Three simple recipes
Quantities are small on purpose, because homemade products have a short shelf life. As a rough guide, make only what you will use within a month or two, and sooner for anything that contains food ingredients.
Simple body oil. Use a single plain oil, such as sweet almond, sunflower or jojoba, in a clean bottle. Avoid nut oils if you or anyone you will share it with has a nut allergy. A single ingredient is easier to patch-test and easier to trace if something goes wrong. Use on dry skin after washing.
Basic lip balm. Gently melt about one part beeswax with about three to four parts plain oil in a heatproof bowl over a pan of hot water, stirring until combined. Pour into a clean small tin or tube and leave to set. A larger share of wax gives a firmer balm. Beeswax is not suitable for vegans, and candelilla wax is a plant-based alternative that needs a different ratio, so adjust by trial. Avoid adding flavourings or essential oils for children.
Sugar scrub for hands and body. Mix about half a cup of sugar with a quarter cup of plain oil. Use a little on damp skin, then rinse. Do not use it on the face, which is more delicate, or on broken or sunburned skin. Keep water out of the jar, since moisture promotes spoilage, and be careful of slippery floors in the shower.
Essential oils: less is more
Essential oils are often added for scent, but they are a common cause of skin reactions, and fragrance sensitivity is among the most frequent causes of contact allergy. Scenting is optional.
- If you add them, use only a tiny amount, and follow a reputable source for dilution guidance.
- Some oils, such as citrus ones, can make skin more sensitive to sunlight.
- Avoid them in products for babies and young children, and take advice before using them during pregnancy.
- Keep them out of reach of children and pets, since swallowing them can be dangerous and some are toxic to pets. If someone swallows one, contact a poison information service or emergency services straight away.
Kitchen ingredients and food waste
Face masks made from honey, oats, yoghurt, avocado or fruit appear in many recipes, and it is tempting to use up leftovers, partly out of a wish to cut food waste. Food ingredients can carry bacteria, are prone to spoiling, and some cause allergic reactions on the skin. If you try one, use fresh ingredients, make a single-use portion, patch-test first, and wash it off as directed. Never store a mask. Note also that food-grade does not mean skin-safe, nor the reverse.
Patch-testing
Test any new recipe before wider use:
- Apply a small amount to the inner forearm or behind the ear.
- Wait at least 24 hours, watching for redness, itching, swelling or a rash.
- If your skin is clear, try a small area, and introduce one new product at a time.
A clear patch test lowers the risk but does not remove it, as reactions can build up with repeated use. Stop if you notice irritation. Seek medical advice if symptoms are severe, spread, affect your eyes or face, or do not settle after a few days.
Judging claims you read online
Social media is full of recipes promising to fix acne, remove wrinkles or “detox” the skin. Treat those claims with caution: most are unsupported by reliable evidence, and skin conditions deserve proper advice. Wording that sounds natural and pure is a form of marketing, much as with other greenwashing claims in the wider world of eco products.
This is general information, not medical advice.